Shank Drills

is this an effective way to make a sword?

so i don't have acces to a forge, so i had to improvise im gonna get a 1m long piece of steel and temper it and then make a handle out of leather or rope the hand guard im thinking about having someone weld a piece of steel, and as for the sharpening i know how to do it and i have enough whet stones and i know the techniques and the scabbard im gonna use plywood and leather to make it
so in ur opinion will this idea work or is it stupid
yea mike but to make a good sword u need about a month im actually saving time by 75% because i've done this before to make a knife and it worked

Most barstock of that length commercially available isn't tempered or forged to be suitable for weapons. You can temper it yourself, if you have a long enough forge to do so and understand proper tempering procedures. You'll also need a long, narrow tub to quench in, made of a piece of six inch diameter PVC drain pipe and cut lengthwise into two halves with the ends capped off. Fill this tub with water or oil to quench in, but I prefer quenching in oil.

What is a good idea to look for are the older steel underbedframes that support the boxsprings and mattress. Those frames are usually made of tempered spring steel and can be cut into blades and retempered. Cut the blade out first and use a bench grinder to shape your edge and to shape the tang so you can slide your crossguard down the tang to the blade stops. Once you have the steel shaped retemper it to a nice cherry red evenly up and down the sword blank and then plunge it into the oil tub all at one time.

Your crossguard can be milled out of stainless steel barstock or out of brass or bronze, but you'll need to drill two holes through it as far apart as the tang is wide and then mill those two holes into a slot that the tang can slide through. It is a good idea to make that slot almost too short, so that the fit is very tight, requiring you to have to tap the crossguard down onto the tang with a hammer or mallet. Once the crossguard is in place you can affix the grip, which will rest tightly against the crossguard and stabilize it.

Carve your grip out of two pieces of wood and fix them to the tang with epoxy first before riveting them on. Inexpensive rivets can be made from aluminum roofing nails with the heads and points ground off, leaving the straight smooth shank. Drill through the grip and gently hammer a shank through the hole, which should be a tight fit, then carefully peen the ends into a slight mushroom cap to set the rivet. Fashion a pommel out of three pieces of circular steel, about two to three inches in diameter, with the middle piece being the same thickness as the blade. Make a cutout in the middle piece to accomodate the end of the tang and then drill matching rivet holes through all three pieces, about six to eight should do. One of these rivet holes should also pass through the tang.

Assemble the three disks around the tang end and rivet them together with the aluminum shank rivets. Leave a millimeter or two more than you did for the grip rivets so you can peen them over into domes. You can then carve your grip or cover it in leather, and start with a whetstone on your rough edges to sharpen them a bit - but not too much. A sword doesn't need a razor sharp edge to work, as such an edge dulls quickly and makes the sword more prone to edge chipping or divoting. Take it to a nice triangular cross-section like a chisel edge, and leave it at that.

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